Khandua pata saree is a traditional handloom saree that originates from the state of Odisha, India. The saree is made using pure silk and is considered to be one of the finest forms of silk sarees in India.
It is hand-woven in the state of Odisha and is known for its intricate designs and vibrant colors.
The Khandua Pata Saree is a symbol of the state’s traditional weaving and dying techniques, which are still practiced by skilled craftsmen in the Sonepur and Nuapatna regions of Odisha.
In this article, we will explore the history, production process, and cultural significance of the Khandua Pata Saree.
KHANDUA PATA SAREE ORIGIN AND HISTORY
The origin of Khandua pata saree dates back to the 12th century when King Anangabhima III of the Eastern Ganga dynasty ruled over Odisha.
During his reign, the king invited weavers from Tantikandhara village (now known as Nuapatna) to create special sarees for the temple deities in Puri.
The weavers created sarees using the ikat technique, which involves dyeing the yarn before weaving to create patterns on the fabric.
They used their traditional weaving techniques to create a unique design featuring images of Lord Jagannath, the presiding deity of the temple, along with other religious and cultural motifs.
This design became the prototype for the Khandua Pata Saree, which is still popular today.
Over time, the sarees became popular among the royal families and aristocrats of Odisha and was considered a symbol of their status and wealth.
The saree was made using pure silk and was decorated with intricate designs and motifs inspired by nature and mythology.
The weavers further refined the technique and created the Khandua pata saree, which is characterized by a border of traditional motifs, such as temple spires, flowers, and elephants.
On the pallu of a Khandua pata saree, many sorts of scenery are also depicted in horizontal rows.
Khanduas are not only referred to be “the pride of Odisha,” but they also have a deep cultural and historical background and are strongly tied with Lord Jagannath in several ways.
Historically, the ‘Angavastra’ of Lord Jagannath is made of Khandua cloth. Various cotton textiles besides Gitagobinda-Khandua-pata (silk) are utilised in the everyday ceremonies of the deities.
WEAVING PATTERN OF KHANUDA PATA SAREE
Khandua is the weaving of Nuapatna, the biggest cluster in Odisha. Khandua sarees are woven by hand using ancient wooden looms, and the entire community of Nuapatna is committed to this traditional method of weaving.
There are 10,000 weavers and approximately 6,000 looms present at this location. Maniabandha, situated only 3 kilometers from Nuapatna, has a population of 3,500 and 384 looms in total.
These two communities are synonymous with Khandua production.
The production process of the Khandua Pata Saree is a complex and time-consuming process that involves a combination of weaving and dying techniques.
The process begins with the selection of the silk threads, which are then washed and dried in the sun. The threads are then twisted together to form a yarn, which is then dyed using natural dyes made from plants and minerals.
The colors used in the dyeing process are typically red, black, and white, which are the traditional colors of the Khandua Pata Saree.
Once the yarn is dyed, it is woven on a traditional handloom by skilled craftsmen. The weaving process can take anywhere from a few days to several weeks, depending on the complexity of the design.
The design of the Khandua Pata Saree typically features images of Lord Jagannath, along with other religious and cultural motifs.
The saree is typically six yards long and 48 inches wide, and it takes around 20 days to weave a single saree.
MAINTENANCE AND CARE
Khandua pata saree is a delicate fabric and requires special care and maintenance. The saree should be dry-cleaned to maintain its color and texture.
It should be stored in a cool and dry place, away from sunlight and moisture. The saree should be wrapped in a muslin cloth to prevent it from getting damaged.
DESIGN AND MOTIFS OF KHANDUA PATA SAREES
The design and motifs used in Khandua Pata sarees are a testament to the skill and creativity of the weavers. The sarees are woven using natural silk and cotton yarn, and the designs are inspired by the local flora and fauna.
The most popular motifs used in Khandua Pata sarees are the lotus, peacock, fish, and conch.
These motifs have religious significance in Hindu mythology, and the sarees are worn during auspicious occasions like weddings and puja ceremonies.
One of the most unique aspects of Khandua Pata sarees is the Jhalia design, which is a checkered pattern created using contrasting colors.
The weavers use a technique called ‘ikat’ to dye the yarn before weaving it, resulting in a seamless pattern that is a hallmark of Khandua Pata sarees.
The saree is also draped in a unique style, which involves pleating a saree at the waist and tucking it at the back, leaving the pallu draped over the shoulder.
COLOURS OF KHANDUA PATA SAREES
The sarees are available in a range of bright hues like red, yellow, green, blue, and purple, and the weavers use natural dyes made from plants and herbs.
The colors used in the sarees have deep religious significance and are believed to bring good luck and prosperity.
The red color used in Khandua Pata sarees is considered auspicious and is worn by brides during their wedding ceremonies.
The blue color is associated with Lord Krishna and is worn during Janmashtami. The yellow color is believed to bring happiness and good luck and is worn during festivals like Holi and Diwali.
HOW TO DISTINGUISH GENUINE KHANDUA PATA SAREE
- Khandua pata sarees are distinctive and characterised by its design, which features a refined layout and harmonious colour scheme that emits a rainbow sheen.
- On cloth, motifs such as star temple conch, chakra, lotus, swan, peacock, parrot, deer, elephant, horse, lion, Gitagovinda and dance of devadasi are commonly woven.
- Anchol (Pallu) is weft tie-dyed, whereas the border is warp tie-dyed.
- Reflection on two-tone colour or shot effect resulting from the use of different warp and weft yarn colours is observed.
SPECIALITY OF KHANDUA PATA SAREE
This saree’s biggest appeal is that it is woven using traditional silk yarn and then transformed into lovely textiles and sarees. The quality of these yarns is examined for contaminants according to exacting standards.
They are entrusted with the creation of high-quality yarns, and as a result, their silk sarees are continually appreciated on a global scale.
It is also renowned for its temple boundaries. Khandua Saree is admired not only by the people who wear them, but also by skilled designers and fabric specialists from around the world.
Dyeing is one of the distinctive qualities of Khandua pata sarees. The threads used for weaving are first tie-dyed in vibrant colors, and then woven on a handloom to create a beautiful pattern.
The dyeing process is done using natural dyes made from roots, leaves, flowers, and fruits, which give the saree a unique and traditional look.
CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE OF THE KHANDUA PATA SAREE
The Khandua Pata Saree is not just a piece of clothing; it is a cultural symbol of Odisha.
It is an art form that has been passed down through generations of weavers. It represents the rich cultural heritage of Odisha and is a symbol of pride and identity for the people of the state.
In addition to its cultural significance, the Khandua Pata Saree is also a source of livelihood for many weavers in the Sonepur and Nuapatna regions of Odisha.
These weavers have been practicing their craft for generations, and they continue to pass on their skills to the next generation.
The production of Khandua Pata Sarees provides employment to thousands of people in these regions, and it helps to sustain the local economy.
KHANDUA PATA SAREE BLOUSE DESIGNS
- Boat neck blouse
- High neck blouse
- Sleeveless blouse
- Backless blouse
- Halter neck blouse
KHANDUA PATA SAREE PRICE
The price range of Khandua pata sarees can start from around INR 2,000 to INR 3,000 and can go up to INR 20,000 or more for a premium-quality saree with intricate designs and fine silk fabric.
The price range of Khandua pata sarees in India can vary depending on various factors such as the quality of the fabric, intricacy of the design, and the reputation of the weaver or seller.
Additionally, the prices may also differ based on the location where the saree is purchased, such as from a local weaver or a specialized store in a metropolitan city.
It is important to note that Khandua pata sarees are handwoven and involve a lot of skill and craftsmanship, which makes them more expensive than mass-produced machine-made sarees.
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LATEST TRENDS IN KHANDUA PATA SAREE
The Khandua Pata Saree is made using traditional techniques, which represents the
skilled craftsmanship and dedication of the weavers who have been practicing their craft for generations. The weavers use natural dyes and handloom to create intricate designs that make each saree unique.
In the present day, Khandua pata sarees continue to be a popular and highly valued traditional handwoven textile in Odisha and beyond.
The saree is also popular among celebrities and has been worn by many Bollywood actresses on various occasions.
The weaving of these sarees has been passed down through generations of weavers from the Devanga community and is still practiced using traditional techniques and materials.
However, like many traditional handwoven textiles, the craft of Khandua pata saree weaving is facing several challenges in the present day.
One of the biggest challenges faced by Khandua pata saree weavers is competition from cheaper, mass-produced textiles.
This has led to a decline in demand for traditional handwoven sarees like Khandua pata, and has made it difficult for weavers to earn a sustainable income.
To address these challenges, several initiatives have been undertaken to promote and preserve the craft of Khandua pata saree weaving.
For instance, the Odisha government has established a Handloom Development Corporation to provide support to weavers and promote traditional handloom textiles, including Khandua pata sarees.
Many non-governmental organizations (NGOs) and independent artisans are also working to promote the craft and create new markets for Khandua pata sarees, both in India and internationally.
Overall, while the present-day scenario for Khandua pata sarees is challenging, there are many efforts underway to preserve and promote this traditional handwoven textile, and to ensure that it continues to be valued and appreciated for generations to come.
